7
Apr
2007
Repairing a Paint Scratch
How To: Repair a Paint Scratch
When you walk out to the car and see something like this, you get that deep sinking feeling like there's no justice in the world. And face it, there really isn't. The scratch is about 8" long and makes a right hook at the top that is about 1" long. It seemed to go through the clearcoat as well as the layer of paint. But under microscope, did not appear to go through the primer.
This is a closeup. It looks like a runaway shopping cart more than anything else. For the "is it down to the metal test", we wet it and it seemed to disappear for a moment. Then when the water dried, the scratch reappeared. If the scratch didn't go away with water or wax, the damage would be deeper.
Its small enough not to warrant a paint job, but large enough and conspicuous enough to be a major annoyance. This sucks extra hard because I have a metal flake/pearlized paint job (factory).
I can't take any credit for this job. When I saw the scratch I balled up in the fetal position and called my father. He came over and showed me how they used to do jobs old school. Back in the day he used to own his own custom car shop in New York, so a little touchup for him over the weekend was just...slumming. Anyway, all I did was document. Let's get to it.
Oh, and about the pine cone needle. You'll use a toothpick when you paint. We used a pine cone needle...would you believe we wanted to be ecofriendly? Ok, would you believe we didn't have any toothpicks and were to lazy to run out to the store?
Things you'll need:
Toothpick (or a pine cone needle)
No-lint rags
Cup w/water
1400 Grit Sandpaper
Rubbing Compound - we used the generic labeled "Rubbing Compound" from PaintScratch
Clear Coat Rubbing Compound - we used "Number 7 Clearcoat Polishing Compound" - it doesn't requre a buffer and is safe for clearcoat
Basecoat paint to match your car's exterior (you can get this from the dealer or PaintScratch)
Clear Coat - we used the clear coat from PaintScratch
Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer - we used 303 Protectant
| Preparation & First Coat |
- Use rubbing alcohol or lighter fluid to clean the scratch area. Dry it off.
- Get a little paint on the tip of the toothpick, then stab the scratch to fill the area.
Don't try to slather on a thick coat. Patience, young grasshopper. You are basically doing a spackle job on the crack, but you will do this in small steps.
And don't worry if you get a little excess outside of the crack. |
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Fig 1: Filling the crack |
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| 3. Continue along the scratch. |
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Fig 2: Pine cone needle in action |
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4. Let the paint dry. About 10 minutes with the thin coat should be good. We also had heat lamps which helped a little bit.
5. The paint will shrink a bit as it settles in the crack, but you will be left with a little excess, and perhaps some 'blobbing' of the paint shown below: |
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Fig 3: Paint drying on the crack |
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| 6. Dip the 1400 grit sandpaper in water and lightly rub the painted area. Let the sandpaper do the work, just guide it along..always keeping it damp. The goal is to lower the lump of new paint and to get it flush with the rest of the body panel. |
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Fig 4: Wetsanding the area |
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| 7. Squeal like a little girl when it actually looks worse from the scuffing: |
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Fig 5: Affects of wetsanding |
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| Rinse & Repeat |
- Once the blob of paint you added is sanded smooth, wipe the area clean with your damp t-shirt.
- Examine the area. You will most likely need a second, and possibly third coat to fill deep areas of the scratch that persist.
- Dab a little more paint in the troublesome spots (or deeper crevices) with your toothpick.
- Follow the procedure above to sand and wipe clean the area.
- Rinse and repeat until your scratch disappears.
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Fig 6: Reapplication of paint |
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Fig 7: More sanding |
| 6. Check the results with a little rubbing compound on a t-shirt. This will remove the buffing dullness caused by the sandpaper and allow you to get a clear look at the progress. Your heart rate will return to normal. |
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Fig 8: Light buffing with rubbing compound |
| 7. Compared with the image at the top of this post, you'll see it's getting much better, but still needs a little work: |
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Fig 9: Showing some improvement |
8. Use the paint/sandpaper/buff technique until the repair is completely flush with the existing paint job. Your fingernail should not be able to catch in the scratch.
9. When you are satisfied with the repair, dab a little clear coat on the top...super light touch with this. Let it dry
10. Lightly wet sand. |
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Fig 10: Sand the clear coat |
| 11. Buff with rubbing compound and your t-shirt |
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Fig 10: Sand the clear coat |
| 12. Final buff with the clearcoat compound. |
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Fig 11: Buff, Buff, Buff |
- Wipe the area clean.
- Use a protectant on the surface. We used 303's Aerospace Protectant.
- Wipe to a shine.
- After buffing you may notice that your repair area has a slightly smoother surface than the surrounding areas...that's because in your repair you corrected the crappy factory paint job. The simple clear coat they leave you with has a slight orange peel effect...this has been buffed smooth by the repair process.
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| Before and After Shots |
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Fig 12: Before |
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Fig 13: After |
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Fig 14: Before Detail |
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Fig 15: After Detail |